Kathy in Paris

There is a breathtaking little church in Chartres, hiding behind the magnificent cathedral, just waiting to be discovered.

The outside is obviously old, not particularly in great condition, but OH MY, when you open the door! It took my breath away. Here is a blurb from the web on the history of the church:

My photos do not do it justice.

A professional pic

Yesterday, as my friend Mary and I were wandering around the streets surrounding the American Cathedral (waiting for the 6pm service to start), we stopped in front of a restaurant called La Fermette Marboeuf. There, across the street from each other, were two perfect examples of Hausmann buildings – 6 stories, businesses on ground floor, apartments above, second floor (we would call it the thir floor) balconies fancier than all the rest (Deuxieme Etage was for the wealthier folks).

While I was regaling Mary with my smattering of knowledge about the architecture, a waiter who was setting up the outside tables for the evening asked us if we knew about the buildings? We said we didn’t, and he proceeded to give us a little lesson in 19th century Art Nouveau. Mind you, this was all in French, and while I confess to smiling and nodding a few times when I had no clue what he was saying, I did understand most of it. AND I could speak back to him!! sort of.

Example:

Waiter – these buildings were built in about 1850 and are on the National Register as historic buildings.

Me – What I wanted to say – How beautiful! They are amazing!
What I probably said –  Good things! It is fantastic!

After I impressed him a few more times with my French, he asked us if we wanted to see inside. I figured, hey – it’s a restaurant. How special could it be? But we accepted his kind offer.

I amazed!!!!! As we turned a corner into the room below, he explained that this part of the restaurant is original, making it over a century old. Mary and I about fell over. I couldn’t breathe for a minute. It was overwhelmingly beautiful.

As you can see from the pictures below, it was spectacular! Stunning! Breathtaking. And, yes, fantastique.

Two posts in one day! Unheard of.

Wednesday, it being Vacance Printemps or Spring Vacation, Aidan, Angèle, Suzanne Yoder (good friend here in Paris) and I took a trip to the southwest of Paris to an amusement park called France Miniature. Didn’t know quite what to expect, but I had been told that you can see all the important sites in France in one day. Everything from the Alpes to the Ile de Rey is in miniature, and I have to say it was amazing.

Of course, it rained.

But we all had umbrellas and capuces (sp?) (the equivalent of hoodies), and it didn’t POUR, so we happily wandered all over France. The detail was incredible. Kids were fascinated and Suzanne and I had fun recognizing things we have already seen and noting the places we haven’t that looked interesting.

Pictures are worth bunches of words, so here you go:

Well, it is almost time to elect a President of France, and no matter who you are rooting for, observing the French election process is pretty interesting and very different from that of the US.

As in the UK, there seems to be a relatively short “I am running for…” time compared to the campaigns in the US which start almost as soon as the elections are over. I have to say I find that very civilized and a huge relief from the relentless primaries, commercials, and fundraising in the States. I always get to the point where I almost don’t care who gets elected – just get it done, for crying in the sink!

One thing I think is brilliant over here – the way they handle campaign literature during election time. About three weeks before elections at each school and Mairie (City Hall), they put up a “wall” of metal upon which you can hang posters. These are the only legal places you can do so! Graffiti is at a minimum, and except for the occasional mustache, the posters remain untouched. For a city where dog poop litters every sidewalk, it is kind of strange to me that campaign literature is so purposefully kept off the streets.

Last Monday I went with my friend, Michelle, to the Parc de Bagatelle, a beautiful park alongside the Bois de Boulogne. Bagatelle is a smaller parc, but beautifully landscaped – here’s what their website says about its history:

Well, it was stunning! The bulbs were in full bloom, the peacocks were displaying like mad, trying to impress the ladies, and the day was beautiful.

Eudes Boulangerie and Patisserie, a neighborhood favorite.

Much has been said about bread through the centuries – it is the staff of life, when something is outstanding it is “better than sliced bread,” Jesus talked a lot about and did a lot with bread and even money has been referred to as bread.

In France no one says it better than David Leibovitz in his blog: 

At last count, there are 1263 bakeries in Paris.

On just about every street, there’s at least one, if not two, or even three bakeries. Some of them are very good, a few are perhaps not so fabulous, and several are excellent. Parisians eat a lot of bread, far more than their American counterparts.

Visitors often wonder, “How come we don’t have bakeries like this is America?”

“Because people won’t eat bread in America anymore. Everyone’s afraid of it.” I respond

Tragically, most nod in agreement.”

You see, the difference is that the relationship between the French and their bread is sacred. It is daily. It is part of their DNA.

A meal is not a meal without some form of French bread to accompany it. There are Patisseries or Boulangeries on just about every corner in Paris, and specific Patisseries/Boulangeries become part of the family, part of the daily routine. You might have a favorite for desserts, another for croissants and other flaky goodies and of course a special one for the daily loaves required for each meal. Rarely are they all found at the same bakery.

For instance, my favorite Tarte au Citron (Lemon Tarte) is on the corner of the main thoroughfare in Puteaux. Best baguette/tradicion is behind the Sunday Market on  Rue du Chantecoq. Absolute favorite Almond Croissant is found at Quotidien in Paris – inexplicably, it is a chain that has the lightest, flakiest Almond Croissants instead of the usual flat, gooey ones found in every other Patisserie I have checked.

One other note of interest – vacations for bakers are mandated by the government in cooperation with the baker’s union. France, indeed all of Europe, usually goes out of town in August, but there are those who stay behind. Poor, hot devils. They cannot be left without bread. So, Patisseries get told when they can go on vacation. can’t have all of the bakeries closed at the same time!

Fascinating.

As I become, little by little, more familiar with the language, I realize that there is a real difference between “look it up in the dictionary” French and the French spoken by native speakers. It is, of course, the way “they” can tell if you are one of them. Well, besides your accent.

For instance when my granddaughter wants to be picked up, she says, “Dans les bras!” or “In your arms!” instead of “Pick me up.”

When my grandson is about to do something that might draw blood (and not in a good way), in English I might say, “That’s not safe!” no such expression in French. Instead they would say “C’est dangereux!”

I’ll add to this as I come across little linguistic oddities. If you know any, please post a comment and I’ll include them!